La Puerta de Alcalá

Elvira Q.

puerta de alcalaDesde la época musulmana, Madrid ha estado amurallado, como ciudad que iba creciendo, su perímetro iba ampliándose, ya en época medieval contaba con cinco puertas de acceso a través de su muralla, llamadas reales o de registro, es decir, aquellas en las que se pagaban los impuestos: la de Segovia, Toledo, Atocha, Alcalá y Bilbao, y catorce portillos de menor importancia. Las puertas principales permanecían abiertas hasta las diez de la noche en invierno y en verano una hora más. Tras este horario, y sólo en caso necesario, un retén permitía el paso. Sin embargo los portillos se abrían a primeras horas del día y se cerraban con la puesta del sol, permaneciendo bajo cierre toda la noche. Entre todas esas puertas principales, la de Alcalá, era una de las más importantes, porque conectaba, a través de Aragón y Cataluña, Madrid con Francia.

Sería Felipe II quien nuevamente movería tanto los muros como las puertas, quedando los distritos de Centro y Retiro dentro del cerco amurallado. La Puerta de Alcalá original, más modesta y de aspecto bastante más tosco y primitivo, que Felipe III mandó construir en 1559 con motivo de la llegada a la capital de la que sería su esposa, Margarita de Austria, se construyó en el cruce de las calles Alcalá con Alfonso XI y, aunque fue demolida, de estilo barroco, se sabe que estaba realizada en ladrillo y que contaba con tres arcos, uno principal y dos laterales y una torrecilla a cada extremo. En la parte superior, sobre el arco central, se podía contemplar una estatua de Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes y a ambos lados la de San Pedro Nolasco y la de la beata María Ana de Jesús. Pero esta puerta le pareció demasiado pequeña y modesta al nuevo monarca que ordenó cinco años después que fuera derribada.

La segunda Puerta de Alcalá edificada en tiempos de Felipe III en el mismo emplazamiento que el actual, con tres arcos y una torrecilla a ambos lados del arco, fue inaugurada en 1636. En el plano de Texeira aparecen adosadas a la puerta una capilla y una pequeña casa, donde parece que vivían los encargados del registro a los visitantes.

La ciudad siguió creciendo y la Puerta de Alcalá formaba parte de la muralla que circundaba la ciudad. Los arcos de entrada soportaban gruesas rejas de hierro, puertas que permanecían cerradas por la noche y se vigilaban para controlar entradas y salidas de la ciudad.  Como además la calle Alcalá tenía la consideración de cañada real, la Cañada Real Galiana, por la Puerta pasaban los rebaños de ovejas trashumantes en busca de nuevos pastos año tras año. Todavía pueden verse dos mojones a ambos lados de la calle que indican su categoría de vía pecuaria.

Tras la muerte de su hermano, Fernando VI, en 1759, Carlos III accede al trono de la corona española, viaja desde Nápoles a Madrid para ser proclamado rey en septiembre de 1760.  A su llegada al poder, hace tirar dicha puerta que estaba ya en mal estado y que disgustaba al monarca y encarga a Sabatini la construcción de otra más señorial, a modo de arco del triunfo. Para ello convocó un concurso al que se presentaron arquitectos de la categoría de José de Hermosilla, quien participaría en el diseño del nuevo Paseo del Prado, Ventura Rodríguez, autor de las fuentes de Neptuno, y Francesco Sabatini, que entre otras obras ya había intervenido en la terminación del Palacio Real.

puerta alcalaVentura Rodríguez llegó a presentar hasta cinco proyectos diferentes, ninguno de los cuales complació al rey. Como venía de Italia, donde había realizado importantes obras públicas, buscó consejo de Francesco Sabatini, su maestro arquitecto en Nápoles, quien diseñó dos puertas diferentes, una con pilastras y otra con columnas adosadas a la fachada. Ambos gustaron a Carlos III que no podía decidirse en favor de ninguno de los dos, por lo que al final se decidió utilizar los dos diseños de Sabatini, uno para la cara oeste y el otro para la cara este, por eso, hoy en día, cuando observamos la Puerta de Alcalá, vemos dos fachadas diferentes, según desde donde la estemos contemplando.

El proyecto fue financiado con fondos del Ayuntamiento y nació con el objetivo de conmemorar la llegada a la capital en 1759 del monarca. La Puerta de Alcalá que hoy conocemos fue inaugurada en el año 1778, se trata de una puerta de estilo neoclásico y aspecto monumental. La originalidad de su fábrica consiste en ser el primer arco de triunfo construido en Europa tras la caída del Imperio romano, siendo precursor de otros como el Arco de Triunfo de París o la Puerta de Brandeburgo en Berlín. Con una altura de 19,50 metros, se compone de dos pisos, uno inferior de cinco vanos, tres con arcos de medio punto, el central más elevado, destinados a los carruajes, que debido al grosor del muro terminan convirtiéndose en bóvedas de cañón con casetones, y otros dos laterales adintelados, más pequeños y destinados a los peatones. En su origen, estos vanos se cerraban con rejas que cerraban el tráfico.

Hay que recordar que era entonces una auténtica puerta de entrada a Madrid, pues se abría en la muralla que rodeaba la ciudad, por lo que los arcos de entrada disponían de rejas que se cerraban todos los días a la caída del sol y, aún hoy, se pueden ver bajo los arcos las enormes bisagras en las que se sujetaban las rejas que cerraban la Puerta. Culmina en una cornisa muy remarcada sobre el que se eleva un segundo piso en la zona central, más macizo y coronado por un frontón roto.

En la cara oeste, los vanos están flanqueados por un total de diez columnas, con capiteles jónicos, que acaban en una cornisa coronada por el ático, y se encuentran asentados sobre un zócalo a ambos lados del monumento. En el lateral que mira a Cibeles, las columnas son sustituidas por pilastras acanaladas de orden dórico, excepto dos columnas que engalanan el arco central. El material empleado para su construcción es granito de Segovia y piedra caliza de Colmenar de Oreja para los elementos decorativos. Estos materiales son muy habituales en la arquitectura madrileña del siglo XVIII. Sin embargo, la cubierta de los frontones son planchas de plomo. Los ornamentos que decoran la Puerta de Alcalá son creaciones de Roberto Michel y Francisco Gutiérrez.

puerta de alcala 2En la fachada oeste, hacia Cibeles, los tres arcos centrales están coronados por cabezas en forma de león, que simbolizan la soberanía y la vigilancia y protección de la paz; y los laterales adintelados con relieves de cornucopias, representando la abundancia, mientras que en la fachada este las cabezas de león son sustituidas por cabezas de sátiros, simbolizando la fertilidad, al igual que las guirnaldas florales de los laterales, realizadas todas ellas por el escultor francés Roberto Michel, quien también sería el autor de los leones de la Fuente de la Cibeles. También en la fachada oeste podemos ver sobre la cornisa cuatro armaduras vacías sin nadie en su interior, dispuestas con posturas diferentes, cuyo objetivo es simbolizar la paz, creadas por Roberto Michel, mientras que en la fachada este aparecen cuatro niños representando las virtudes cardinales: Fortaleza, con escudo y lanza; Justicia, con un fascio y una balanza, hoy desaparecida; Templanza, con un estribo y Prudencia, con un espejo, haciendo alusión a las virtudes reales, esculpidas por Francisco Gutiérrez Arribas.

En ambos lados, en la parte superior, en el frontón central, se colocó la inscripción “REGE CAROLO III, ANNO MDCCLXXVIII”. Sobre la inscripción del lado este se encuentra un escudo con las armas reales de la casa de los Borbones con el Toisón, sostenido por la Fama, con una trompeta y un Genio en forma de niño, que son obra de Francisco Gutiérrez, un conjunto similar al sepulcro de Fernando VI en las Salesas Reales y en el lado oeste dos torsos recostados con banderas y casco.

La Puerta de Alcalá ha llegado hasta nosotros sin apenas modificaciones ni daños. Aunque en 2001 se restauró el monumento, se respetaron algunos agujeros de bala y esquirlas de metralla, que dejaron las tropas francesas en la Guerra de la Independencia en1808 y los Cien Mil Hijos de San Luis en 1823 cuando ocuparon Madrid en apoyo a Fernando VII contra los liberales que gobernaban desde 1820. En 1868 se derribó la muralla definitivamente y desaparecieron todas las puertas menos la de Toledo, la de San Vicente y la de Alcalá, las tres puertas que hay en la actualidad en el interior de la ciudad. Durante la Guerra Civil Española se tapó la inscripción de Carlos III, poniendo sobre ella el escudo de la Unión Soviética y un letrero en el que se podía leer “Viva la URSS“, además de los retratos de líderes soviéticos como Stalin, Litvinov y Voroshilov, para conmemorar así el veinte aniversario de la Revolución Rusa. En 1976 fue declarada Monumento Nacional.

 

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