Exposición ‘Manuel Pertegaz’

Elvira Q.

PertegazunnamedManuel Pertegaz (Olba, Teruel 1918 – Barcelona 2014) pertenece a esa exclusiva lista de modistos españoles que vivieron la era dorada de la alta costura en España. Su larga vida profesional, casi siete décadas de actividad, le llevó a expresarse en los distintos estilos de vestir que se sucedieron a lo largo del siglo XX. Pertegaz definió la elegancia de la mujer española, una elegancia distinguida, un glamour sereno y delicado. Creó el concepto de una mujer cisne, frágil y majestuosa, al mismo tiempo triunfó tanto en España, como en Europa y Estados Unidos.

La exposición,  organizada por la oficina de Cultura y Turismo de la Comunidad de Madrid,  realiza una retrospectiva por toda su trayectoria, desde los inicios hasta el final de su carrera, incluyendo la llegada del prêt-à-porter de los 70, momento en que versionó con gran habilidad intelectual sus creaciones para amoldarse a los nuevos aires y a una mujer más globalizada.

Vestido, 1964. Colección Manuel Pertegaz.

Vestido, 1964. Colección Manuel Pertegaz.

La muestra es un homenaje a este modisto, uno de los creadores esenciales para la moda española, e incluye una amplia selección de piezas cedidas para la ocasión principalmente por Pertegaz Studio, pero también por coleccionistas privados y por instituciones como el Museo del Traje CIPE o el Centro de Documentación y Museo Textil de Terrassa.

Las piezas, distribuidas en cada una de las plantas de la sala, tienen la intención de ofrecer al visitante un mayor conocimiento del estilo y de la obra de Manuel Pertegaz. La planta baja da la bienvenida al visitante con piezas icónicas y representativas de su carrera, donde color, tejido y forma demuestran la perfección de su trabajo, mientras que en las plantas primera y segunda conviven alta costura y prêt-a-porter siguiendo el orden, según la ocasión y función, establecido en las casas de costura: vestidos de fiesta, de cóctel, de día. Por último, en la planta tercera se muestra la creatividad del maestro en los trajes de novia, desde el más convencional al más extraordinario.

Vestido de cóctel, 1980. Colección Manuel Pertegaz.

Vestido de cóctel, 1980. Colección Manuel Pertegaz.

Y en la última planta, la cuba del edificio se proyecta un vídeo realizado por el fotógrafo Eugenio Recuenco, en el que los diseños del modisto toman vida en la figura de la modelo Vanesa Lorenzo, quien nos ayuda a apreciar los tejidos y las formas permitiéndonos un mayor entendimiento del lenguaje singular de este gran creador y del canon femenino que creó y defendió durante toda su carrera.

Sala de Exposiciones Canal de Isabel II. C/ Santa Engracia, 125. Madrid. 12 de noviembre. Entrada gratuita.

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